AUTUMN PORTRAIT PICTURES: 4 TIPS

In the third post about fall foliage, we deal with autumn portrait pictures, which concerns how to photograph autumn landscapes with human subjects.

In addition to allowing us to have a super personal memory while visiting a place, having someone into a landscape photo, if well managed, can enhance both the landscape and the subject, and give original and certainly unique photo.

Let’s see some simple tips to get the best results!

FALL FOLIAGE PICS: COMPOSITION

Have you lost our first post about autumn pictures? We talk about how to get perfect compositions in 7 simple tips!

Autumn portrait pictures: 4 tips to take portraits photos in autumn landscapes

1. Choose a good composition before putting in the person

The first step to getting good autumn portrait pictures is not to rush.

First, observe the scene and choose the point that captures your attention the most. Understand which elements of the landscape around you want to include in the composition and which are superfluous or even annoying.

Once you have found your setting, choose where in the composition the subject could best fit.

In particular, avoid allowing the subject to obscure other elements. This means making sure, for example, that a trunk or branch does not emerge from behind the subject and seems to be sticking out of their head!
Otherwise the eye will be caught by this curiousness, which will ruin the photo.

Beyond this aspect, there are some composition choices that can help you.

Here some advice on how to best fit the person in the photo:

  • If the landscape is in the background, prefer the subject in the foreground, in the center or in one of the thirds.
  • If, however, the landscape leaves the center empty and is in the sides, such as in a tree-lined avenue, then your subject will fit better in the center of the scene. In this case, also consider whether it is better to lower the frame by getting closer to the ground.
  • When the landscape is less “tidy”, look for an “empty spot” where to insert the subject, even if not in the foreground. If it has free space around it, it will capture the attention.
  • If the landscape is very confusing and there are many elements, it might be more interesting to choose a greater integration of the person into the scene, for example coming out from behind a tree or choosing a pose in direct contact with nature, to suggest the person’s immersion in the surroundings.

2. Autumn portrait pictures: a good pose

We are all bored of seeing in photos people standing in classic poses looking towards the camera. How to take more original autumn portrait pictures? Here are some examples.

  • Especially in a very rich natural context such as the autumn landscape, it is preferable for the subject to take a natural pose and look away from the lens. The subject may also face a particular direction to lead the viewer’s eye to an interesting detail. This type of choice will help to narrate the experience and emotionally capture the observer.
  • The subject can also perform a particular action to interact more with the landscape. Starting from sitting on a log, holding or throwing leaves in the air, running among fallen leaves. The photo will thus arouse greater emotional involvement and a dynamic appearance.
  • In poses like those just described, you can also choose to make drastic cuts of the subject, limited only to the hands performing the action, the legs, or the hair moving in the wind, excluding the face. Thus, in particular, the photo will represent an autumnal atmosphere rather than the experience of a specific person.
  • If, however, the person is looking into the camera, prefer close-ups with little context, perhaps bringing the subject closer to some details. In this type of shots you play with the contrasts between nature, people and colors. The classic example is that of the person lying on the ground among the colored leaves.

3. Autumn portrait pictures. In focus or blurry?

When taking autumn portraits pictures, playing with blur highlights the person and creates interesting backgrounds.

In fact, the colors of the leaves and the colourful landscapes, if blurred, give the photos a warm atmosphere and represent an excellent background.

To play with blurring, simply change the aperture opening.

IMPROVE YOUR PHOTOS: A GOOD COMPOSITION

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Usually you choose to focus on the subject, placing it in the foreground, and blur the landscape in the background.

But even doing the opposite, blurring the person and focusing on an interesting detail, can lead to original solutions!

4.Autumn portraits pictures: the best outfit

Even the subject’s clothing, mainly regarding colours, can play a key role in the stylistic choices.

  • If you choose warm tones in shades of red, orange, brown and yellow, there will certainly be chromatic associations between the natural context and the subject of the photo. We will therefore work on integration, in the case of overlapping of the two elements, or on correspondences if the person is placed alongside but not superimposed on the colored leaves (as in the example of the first photo below).
  • If you choose dark tones of black or light tones of white, you will work on the color contrast instead. The person you are framing will capture attention precisely because of its uniqueness compared to the surrounding landscape.

FALL FOLIAGE PICTURES: THE LIGHT

Find out how to make the most of every lighting situation to enhance your images. Read our post!

At this point you are almost ready to take your autumn photos. In the fourth post of our column, we will give you the latest tips to make your foliage pictures truly irresistible.

We wil talk about:

4. Fall foliage pics: equipment, post production and presets

What are you waiting for?

Follow our tips and tag us in your shots, the best ones will be shared on Imagomap’s Instagram and Facebook pages.

If you liked our post, share it and leave a comment!

PHOTO TIPS FOR YOUR FOLIAGE PICS: THE LIGHT

In this second post of our column dedicated to autumn photography, we talk about other important photo tip for your fall foliage pics: the light.

In the first post, in fact, we talked about framing, and how to apply simple tricks to improve the composition in autumn shots.

Photo tips for fall foliage pics: composition

Haven’t you read our first article dedicated to foliage yet? Find out how to take interesting shots in 7 simple steps!

Light is always the fundamental element to get a good photo.
And since the foliage shots are mainly taken outdoors, it is necessary to study the light conditions of the place where we are going to shoot, so that we can get the best from our pics.

How to achieve the results we have in mind?

Let’s see it together in 5 simple steps.

Photo tips for you foliage pics: 5 tips to manage light

1. Verify the weather before go

To get the best results from a photographic session outdoor, you necessarily need to check the weather conditions before setting off.

It could seem banal, but it doesn’t mean that you have to give up in bad conditions.
Instead, it means predicting and defining the atmosphere that your photos will have in the event of different weather conditions.

  • On cloudy days, to shoot in the woods prefer the central hours, because you will have a soft and diffused light, while in the early morning and late afternoon the light will be insufficient for taking photos.
  • If the weather is sunny, however, the first lights of dawn and sunset can also be used to create splendid atmospheres.
    Furthermore, the full light that hits the leaves gives them a more intense color. In this case, you need to be careful about the high contrasts between lights and shadows.
  • On a rainy day you can create beautiful effects along wet avenues, or by taking refuge behind the glass of a place overlooking a forest.
    Don’t forget the charm of the leaves that rest on the puddles, with their reflections.
  • If the wind adds to the rain, concentrate on the movement of the leaves falling from the trees.

2. Photo tips for your fall foliage pics: sun position

Understanding the position of the sun will further help you plan your outings.
You will be able to know whether the place you are going will be lit in the morning or afternoon, as a mountainside can often be in shadow for half a day.
You will also know what time the sun rises and what time it will be high enough to illuminate the area. Finally, you will be able to better understand the best location: if you want to shoot against the light to create silhouettes, or if you want the sun to illuminate the scene from behind.

For this purpose, there are many apps that provide the position of the sun.
We recommend:

  • Sunposition, perfect for beginners, it will tell you the position of the sun in any place at any time of the day;
  • PhotoPills, an extremely useful app (one-off payment), which every photographer should have; it allows you to plan each shot, thanks to many professional tools.

Studying the climatic conditions and the position of the sun in advance will help you to create a photographic project, and to start already with the idea of what you want to achieve, so that once on site you can focus on that and easily reach your goals.

3. Taking photos at sunrise in the mist

One of the most fascinating fall atmospheres is often created in the early hours of the morning, on days of fog and mist.

Usually, in these hours, the low fog creeps between the trees and gives the photos an aura of mystery.

If you then have the patience to wait for the sun to rise above the fog, this will be illuminated by the rays that will penetrate through, creating incredible atmospheres.

In this case, since there won’t be much light, it is useful to use a tripod to lengthen the shutter speed. Slightly underexposed photos, however, are perfect in this context.

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4. Photo tips for your fall foliage pics: manage lights and shadows during the day

Even the central hours of the day offer perfect opportunities for your shots.
Here are some examples of subjects to focus on, based on your style choices:

  • If the weather is sunny, you can focus on some details illuminated by the light, which makes the colors brighter.
  • Raising the camera upwards under a tree, could provide excellent color contrasts, with the blue sky colored by the leaves.
  • If you are in a wood, the sun penetrating the branches can create interesting lights and shadows, difficult to manage due to the strong contrasts, but certainly original.
    Focusing on a detail, in these cases, can help keep exposure under control, always excluding backlight.
  • If, however, you want to work with backlight, you can partially cover the sun with a trunk or another element and close the aperture to create the “star” effect of the rays, or cover it completely to create a silhouette effect.

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5. Focus on colors in the warm light of sunset

To take photos at sunset you have to consider the subject and where you are.

  • If you are in the woods, don’t wait for sunset, because the light will be insufficient. Here the last useful moment will be half an hour before the sun disappears behind the horizon or behind another mountain. You can take advantage of the light that penetrates between the branches as described in the previous point.
  • If, however, you are photographing an avenue, an isolated tree, a hill of vineyards or any other subject that leaves the sky and the horizon free, then you can shoot for the entire time of sunset, playing with the colors of the sky that are close to the shades of the leaves.
    The warm light of the sunset will emphasize the colors of the foliage and details and give warmth to the whole scene, without the need to apply further filters in post production.

In the next posts we will give you other photo tips for fall foliage pics, that will help you take incredible shots.

We will talk about:

  1. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos with human subjects
  2. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos: the equipment
  3. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos: editing, filters and presets

What are you waiting for?

Follow our tips and tag us in your shots! The best photos will be shared on Imagomap  Instagram and Facebook page.

If you liked our post, share it and leave a comment!

THE BEST PHOTO TIPS FOR YOUR FALL FOLIAGE PICS: COMPOSITION

Who hasn’t stopped to take fall foliage photos at least once?
Fall is perhaps the most evocative season of the year, with its amazing landscapes.
In fact, the color shades of the leaves give our photos a unique atmosphere of fairytale worlds.
So, what are the best photo tips for fall foliage pics?

A single tree, an entire avenue, a chestnut or beech forest, some leaves scattered along the sidewalk, offer perfect ideas for composing outstanding images.

In the next posts about fall we will see together, every week, some practical tips that professional photographers follow to get the best pics!

Let’s start from composition!

Photo tips for fall foliage pics: the composition of the shot

As in every shot, the composition is the most important aspect!

Especially during the fall season, where often the scene has too many details, with leaves, branches, trees and others elements.
For this reason, it’s important to stop a bit and observe before shooting.

What do you need to ask yourself before shooting?

When you find yourself in front a scene or landscape that you love, stop for 10 seconds to analyse the scene, before hiding behind the lens of your camera.
The risk of falling into banal photos is just around the corner.

These four simple questions can give you the inspiration for the perfect photo in just a few seconds:

  • What are you really interested in?
  • What is the subject of your photo?
  • What elements do you want to include or delete from the frame?
  • How can you make your pic original?

Photo tips for fall foliage pics: 7 easy photo tips

To find the answers to these questions there are some simple practical photo tips for fall foliage pics, to follow before shooting.

1. Isolate with your eyes some details of the scene

Focus on them to identify the subject or subjects of your photographic story.
Whether they are a single leaf or a small group, a branch, a tree or a little mushroom that grows out of the ground, select them.

2. Photo tips for fall foliage pics: place the subject inside the composition

Give the subject the maximum strength, placing it in the center of the composition, or on one of the thirds (remember to activate the grid, both from smartphone or camera).
If your subjects are more than one, placing them one on every third will give you an excellent result.
For example, a tree on the right and a human subject on the left, or a branch full of colored leaves in the foreground on one side and a tree on the background, on the other side.

3. Choose the best distance from the subject to raise its significance in the context

Try to move closer or further away physically before shooting. You may find that you need a zoom or macro lens to better isolate the protagonist of your photo.

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4. Choose original points of view

It can be from above if the main subject is on the ground, as often happens with fallen leaves. Or it can be from below close to the ground, for example to enhance a carpet of leaves and perhaps an imposing tree in the background.
Don’t forget the possibility to choose a point that partially covers the scene, like a tree trunk, that can frame the subject.

5. Photo tips for fall foliage pics: create a subject

If there is no prominent objects in the scene you are observing and you cannot find an original point of view, then create it!
Just move a stone, or a small group of leaves, or put a human subject in the frame to have a protagonist who makes your composition original.

6. Observe the edges of the frame to cut out disturbing elements

They cool be stones, trees, bushes, walls, parked cars and anything else that is not useful for telling what you want to express: “less is more”.
This way, whoever looks at your photo will remain focused on the subject.

7. Photo tips for fall foliage pics: help yourself with the focal aperture

Play with the aperture in order to keep the subject in focus and blur the background or foreground (with your smartphone just focus on the subject from a fairly close point or use the portrait option).
This method helps especially if the scene is very confusing and full, as often happens in autumn landscapes.

In short, to realise stunning fall foliage pics, move around the scene like a director before shooting!

IMPROVE YOUR PHOTO WITH FRAMING PT.2

Do you want to know more to find the best composition in your pics?

In the next posts we will give you other photo tips for fall foliage pics, that will help you take incredible shots.

We will talk about:

  1. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos: the light
  2. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos with human subjects
  3. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos: the equipment
  4. Photo tips for your fall foliage photos: editing, filters and presets

What are you waiting for?

Follow our tips and tag us in your shots! The best photos will be shared on Imagomap  Instagram and Facebook page.

If you liked our post, share it and leave a comment!

JPEG OR RAW: WHAT IS THE BEST?

Looking at the settings of your camera or listening to photographers, you will have known that, in addition to JPEG, a very common format for saving photo files is RAW, now also in the most recent smartphone models!

But what are the differences between the two formats? And how to choose the best one for our photos?

Let’s compare them and try to understand together!

JPEG and RAW: what are them?

JPEG are raster files, meaning images made up of pixels, and are popular for sharing, creating, and viewing photos.

When a JPEG file is generated, it is subject to lossy compression, which means that all the nuances of color, and therefore the details, that the human eye can hardly see are eliminated, creating groups of pixels with homogeneous color.

When you take a JPEG image, you will have an 8 bit file. The number of bits represents the color depth of the image. Each pixel of an 8-bit image consists of a numerical string of 8 digits 0 or 1, which combined together determine a colour. In this way it is possible to have 256 (28) different combinations and therefore 256 shades of color for each of the three primary colours.

RAW files are still raster files, even if they are represented by code and require software processing to be converted into images.

When a RAW file is generated, it does not undergo any type of compression or data loss during recording. This means that it contains a large amount of data within it.
All digital cameras can take photos in RAW format and now some of the latest smartphone models can do it too, making them ideal for amateur or professional photographers.

Digital cameras can shoot at 12 or 14 bit, depending on the type of camera, and this means that if we save the file in RAW, the color gradients will reach 4096 or 16384 for each primary color.

But let’s see the main differences, the advantages or disadvantages of the two formats and learn which one to choose in each situation.

1. The weight

JPEG files are about 5-10 times smaller than RAW.

JPEG files are the most used for saving and sharing images online, they are light in terms of MB, which allows them to be opened, sent and shared quickly, while still maintaining good quality online.

RAW files, on the other hand, containing a greater amount of information, are much heavier. This means that uploading, sending and sharing take much longer. Furthermore, specific programs and software are needed to open these files, while JPEGs are universally recognized.

RAW files, for example, cannot be sent as simple email attachments, as they exceed the maximum capacity allowed and to manage them easily, the computer on which they are processed must offer high performance.

In the image below we report the weight in MB of the original RAW image taken with a Sony digital camera and the weight of the same file exported from Photoshop in JPEG.
During export, there are various settings that can be modified to further reduce the weight of the JPEG, according to different needs, but we still start from a size 7 times smaller!
The same image, used as the cover of this article, has been reduced to 1 MB, in order not to weigh down the page and maintain fast viewing times. Despite this reduction, for a website display, the quality is still enough.

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2. The quality

RAW files have higher quality than JPEGs.
The choice depends on the use we will make of that photo.

JPEG files are subject to lossy compression, which means that some detail, and therefore image quality, is sacrificed to reduce file size and allow for easier management. However, this also alters the image, slightly modifying the colours.
The quality of the JPEG file is still good for viewing from a computer or smartphone, for use on websites, which very often have limits on the weight of the uploaded images, for social networks or for printing in the classic smaller photographic formats.

But if we have to modify that image and process it with post-production software, or enlarge it dramatically, it is precisely the details that the JPEG loses, which do not allow us to continue viewing a quality file and a high definition image. This is where the RAW format comes into play.

In fact, this certainly guarantees a much higher image quality, because it doesn’t compress the data collected by the camera. It therefore has a multitude of more details and records millions more colors than a JPEG image, returning a wider range of colors and tones. This guarantees greater control over the image.

Below we compare two photos, one taken in RAW and one in JPEG, first in the original shot size and then in an enlarged detail.
While in the first image it is more difficult to grasp the difference in quality, in the second it is certainly more evident.
In this case, the photo taken in RAW format was first edited, enlarged and then exported in JPEG, while on the right the image already taken in JPEG was edited, enlarged and saved in the same format.

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3. Photo editing

RAW is the best format for photo editing.

As we said before, if the image needs to be processed, post-produced, modified, altered, or printed in large dimensions (such as for a poster), surely RAW is the right format to choose to maintain the quality of the photo. This is why it is the format most used by professional or amateur photographers.

The high quality of the RAW file allows you to change a wide range of settings after shooting, ensuring maximum flexibility during editing.

Very often RAW images are processed in the main post-production programs, such as Photoshop and Lightroom and then saved in JPEG or other lossless formats, such as PNG or TIFF, based on the use that will be made of them.

Of course, to view and edit RAW files through a computer, it must have good performance, in terms of graphic memory and storage space.

Photoshop and Lightroom, as well as other editing programs, are also available in smartphone app format, in free and paid solutions. If our smartphone allows shooting in RAW, we will therefore be able to obtain excellent results after editing our photos, even without going through the computer.

Can you edit a JPEG with a photo editing program?
Yes, it is possible, but in addition to having fewer editing options, the quality of the photo, if you make substantial changes, is compromised even more and you risk damaging the file, rather than improving it.

In the example below, the same photo was shot in both RAW and JPEG.
After making the same changes while editing, it is clear the immense difference between a RAW file compared to JPEG. The areas of light (overexposed) of the sky on the horizon are not recovered in the JPEG (they remain white), while in the RAW the details of the scene become visible again.
The RAW file also has many more details and shades of color. Just look at the main facade of the lighthouse.

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Below, a detail of the area of the sky damaged during the editing of the JPEG photo.
Unlike RAW, post-production in JPEG has worsened the quality of the original JPEG file, altering the colors of the sky, which no longer has uniform shades, but bands of different tones with sharp divisions.

4. Usability

JPEG files are more convenient to use.

This is because not all photo viewing programs allow you to open RAW files. To view them, it will therefore be necessary to download specific software or convert them to JPEG.
Furthermore, it may happen that we see RAW files in many different extensions, such as .CR2, .RW2, .NEF, .ARW, .SR2, .ORF, .PEF, .RAF, depending on the brand of camera used, which are not universally recognized as JPEG instead.

Furthermore, being much heavier, RAW files can slow down applications, unless the computer has good performances.

Given that usually these files are then sent, shared, uploaded to social networks or websites, most people who work with RAW files, once the editing is finished, save them in more manageable formats, such as the JPEG.

Once these points have been clarified, let’s now see some technical and practical aspects that will help us in passing from one file to another.

5. RAW or JPEG: how to set our devices

The format in which you want to shoot can be selected in all cameras and in the most recent smartphones, by accessing the settings menu.
Naturally, since RAW files are much heavier, the maximum number of photos stored in the phone’s memory or in the camera’s SD card will drastically decrease. The choice will always depend on the use we want to make of them.
In cameras, it is also possible to take a photo and save it in RAW+JPEG at the same time: in this way two files will be generated, a JPEG ready to use and a RAW to be worked on. Sometimes this choice can be very useful, but remember that in this way the memory space will run out even faster.

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6. Converting a RAW file to JPEG

You can convert a RAW file to JPEG by opening it in an editing program and saving or exporting it in a different format from the File window.
In the images below, we see how to export a RAW file to JPEG with Photoshop.
There are also some easy-to-use online apps where you can directly upload a RAW photo, by dragging it to the web screen, to convert it to JPEG or other formats.

If we need a higher quality than JPEG, especially in occasions such as large prints or fine art prints, or if we have to archive many files before editing, but we want to preserve their quality, we can choose to export the file in PNG or TIFF, which are subject to compression but lossless.

So again, the conversion depends on the use of the file.

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After clicking Export As…, you’ll find a screen where you can choose whether to export to JPEG or other formats, a preview on the left of the file size, and further settings on the right to change the weight and quality of your file.

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7. JPEG or RAW? Some practical examples

Let’s see, therefore, some examples to choose when to shoot in JPEG or RAW.

If we’re taking photos that we’re not going to edit with post-production and we’ll have to use for social pages or online sharing, it’s perfectly fine to shoot in JPEG: so we’ll have files that are light and fast enough to view, share, download, upload online.

If, on the other hand, we intend to modify the file in post-production, also to use it on the web, or we want to print our photos, perhaps in fine art or simply in a format larger than the simple 10×15 or 12×18, such as posters, then we should opt for the RAW format.

Naturally, for all professional work, such as photos taken for events, exhibitions, graphic work or for any client, a minimum of post-production is practically a must, so the RAW format must be chosen.

8. One last tip: the EXIF files

Every time we take a photo, the EXIF (Exchangeable Image File Format) data is associated with it, which provides information concerning the time and date of shooting, the make and model of the camera, the settings about the aperture, the shutter speed, the ISO, and even the geographic coordinates of the shooting location (where active or if can be activated) and copyright information (where entered).

These data, less detailed than digital cameras, are also present in photos taken with smartphones.

To view them, just access the properties of the photo taken, both from a smartphone and a camera.
The EXIF data remains attached to the file even after exporting and editing, compressing and sending the files, unless you want to remove them on purpose with specific software.

These files are very useful for analyzing and verifying the images produced, for understanding the settings used in a photo that we like and for repeating them in similar lighting conditions.
From EXIF files you can really learn a lot if you want to improve the technique, both by analyzing and comparing your own photos, taken with different settings, and by taking inspiration from the images of others, especially if you are approaching the manual settings for the first time.

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What are you waiting for?

Follow our advice and tag us in your photos, we will publish them on our pages Instagram and Facebook.

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HOW TO TAKE AMAZING SHOTS AT SUNRISE AND SUNSET

Discover our sunrise and sunset photography tips and practical examples to realize beautiful shots and capture unforgettable atmospheres!

But managing those light conditions, in which there is a lot of contrast between the brightness of the sky and the dark earth, is not easy at all.

So, let’s see how to best manage our camera to get incredible photos, which will not betray the beauty of what our eyes observe.

Often, in fact, looking at our photos, they do not seem to represent what we have seen in person at their best. This happens mainly because our eye, unlike the camera, has an extraordinary ability to adapt to almost any existing light condition, even when observing environments with different exposures at the same time. For the camera however, when the dynamic range of the image is greater than the capabilities of the sensor, some very bright or very dark parts will not be able to be captured correctly, resulting black or white respectively.

So how can we compensate for this problem in our cameras?

Follow our advice!

1. With your smartphone

If you use a smartphone, automatic HDR is usually present, just activate it and focus by touching the screen in a dark part of the frame, to calibrate the brightness. In this way the lightest part, that of the sky, will become almost white. 

But after taking the shot, looking back at the photo, you will see that the phone will have automatically recorded several exposures and the result will be perfect, with no areas that are too dark or too light, and with bright colors. 

Automatic HDR is usually already active, otherwise look for it in the settings. If you shoot against the light and insert a human subject, but the color of the sky is too light and the face remains dark, click right above the face before shooting, to increase the brightness. 

After shooting, thanks to the HDR mode, you will also have recovered the background colors and at the same time you will have your subject bright and recognizable!

In the image below you can

2. The filters with the reflex

If, on the other hand, you use a reflex, you can use two methods: the first is to use a degrading filter, that is a glass plate that goes from completely transparent to black, to be mounted in front of the lens thanks to a holder, in order to recalibrate the exposure of the darker areas. 

The filters are of different materials and intensities, more nuanced or with a sharper edge, depending on your needs, but you won’t need to spend too much money to start with. 

You will also need the holder to screw onto the lens (check that your lens has the thread) and where to insert the filter. 

By positioning the dark area in correspondence of the brightest part of the photo, you will be able to compensate for the difference in exposure and obtain ready-to-use photos, without the need for post-production. 

Furthermore, using this method you will not need a tripod to take multiple overlapping photos, as we will see with the next method, but you will only need it if the light conditions will force you to use long exposure.

In this case, pay attention to where the darkest part of the filter ends and the transparent part begins, especially if this division is clear. By placing the filter on the lens, make sure that this line of demarcation happens right on the point where the exposure of the landscape you are shooting changes.

3. Bracketing with the reflex

The second method, without filters, is to take multiple photos with different exposures and then combine the shots in post-production, with a special automatic command. This technique is called bracketing. 

Usually, you take at least three shots or five shots, from one very light to one very dark, one normally exposed, one slightly underexposed, and one slightly overexposed. In this way, each shot will have a perfectly exposed area, and only by putting them all together we will obtain the correct exposure throughout the image. 

You can apply this method changing the settings about auto exposure bracketing in your camera, turning the dial to set the different exposures, before taking the three photos.

Most cameras have also a special setting to take these shots, just choose the number of total shots you want and the number of exposure compensation stops between shots.

In each of the shots, the aperture will be left constant, so as not to change the depth of field and therefore the focus of the subject between one shot and another, but the shutter speeds will change. 

The first shot will be taken with the setting you chose, the second will capture the brightest areas, while the other shot will capture the darkest ones. 

You can then do some simple shooting tests to understand how to improve the settings.

Naturally, for this technique, it would be better to use a tripod or to find a support to keep the camera stable, not only because some shots could take a long time and therefore the single photo could be blurry, but also because the photos should be perfectly the same to simplify post-production work.

It is also better to shoot in .RAW mode (just choose this format from the various available in the camera settings). This way your photos won’t lose quality when editing in post-production.

In the following images you can see the tree shots taken with the bracketing method. The last photo is the final one, after post-production.

4. Don’t just focus on the sun!

If the sun is full and too bright, before sunset or just after sunrise, try not to include it in the scene because the photo would be overexposed or you will have annoying glares or reflections (the fleur is not always appreciable).

Concentrate rather on the colors of the sky or of the subjects in the photo, which take on amazing shades because they are lightened by the warm light of dawn or dusk. 

In this way you will be able to take much more interesting photos than framing the sun!

The best moment to frame the sun is certainly sunset, when it is about to disappear behind the horizon, because its brightness will not compromise the scene and your camera sensor.

At dawn it is much more difficult for the amount of light to be sustainable, unless there are clouds covering the sun.

5. Sunrise and sunset photography: how to frame the scene

At sunrise and sunset you can mainly make three choices.

The first is to not include the sun but focus on the overall light, capturing other details of the landscape characterized by it.

This choice also includes all the photos taken before dawn and after sunset, when the nuances of the landscape and the sky change to shades of pink, red and yellow and you can see incredible panoramas with a thousand shades.

The second is, as we mentioned before, to make the sun your subject, especially at sunset, focusing on its colors and those of the surrounding context. In this case the sun will assume a central position and you will probably choose to use a zoom.

The third is to include the moment of sunset or sunrise in a larger frame, including both the sun and the entire landscape. In terms of composition, you will probably choose a wide angle shot, placing the sun in one third and another important subject, in the other third (read this article to learn more about the rule of thirds and other simple rules of composition).

Do you want to know more about how to frame your shoots? Find out out tips in this article!

What are you waiting for?

Try to put our tips into practice and tag us in your photos, we will publish them on our Instagram and Facebook pages.

Curious about more tips to shoot with different lights?
Find them out in this article!

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LIGHT IN PHOTOGRAPHY: THE BEST WAY TO TAKE AMAZING PHOTOS!

Light in photography is the essential element to express our creativity, to give strength to the image and to give meaning to our story.

The different light conditions will completely change the meaning of our photo and express different feelings.

So let’s see how to use different light conditions to realize amazing shots!

1. Backlight shooting

Backlight shooting is very interesting when creating the silhouette effect. The strong brightness captured by the camera makes the shadow elements appear completely black and creates exciting contrasts, as in the photos below.

When shooting backlighting photos, try not to frame the sun if it is still too bright, because otherwise that area of the photo will be overexposed (white), or you could create flares or unpleasant reflections. In fact, these defects are very difficult to fix even in post production.

If you still want to include the sun, try to partially cover it with another subject. In this way, you will get the sun star effect and you will see the rays spread across the photo.
To achieve this, you’ll need to use aperture values like f/18 or f/20, to decrease the amount of light hitting the sensor. Also try with your smartphone in pro mode.

Instead, you can use the sun as your subject at sunset, when it is already low on the horizon and its brightness has decreased.

2. Human subjects in sunlight

When photographing a human subject in sunlight, try to avoid ugly shadows on the face caused by shadows. To do this, shoot when the sun is not too high in the sky or have the person’s face rotated or tilted until it is fully illuminated.

If you are shooting backlighting portraits and you don’t want the silhouette effect, overexpose the photo, decreasing the shutter speed or opening the aperture, until the person is correctly illuminated, while the rest of the scene will tend to white.

3. Light as the main subject

Often the light is the main subject of photography, because it creates really interesting contrasts.

If you’re looking for contrasts, then this has to be strong, with areas well lit (but never overexposed) and others very dark. To do this, you’ll need to be mainly indoors, with a direct light source, positioned to illuminate only part of the subject.

Sometimes a dark room illuminated only by the light from a window is enough to create really interesting images.

For indoor shots, you can also use artificial lights and, if necessary, opaque panels, called diffusers, to soften the light and make it diffuse.

If you are outdoors, to get strong contrasts, there must be a beautiful sunny day and an element, such as a building or a forest, which creates strong shadows.

Or, in the evening, you can obtain soft and interesting atmospheres by capturing a light source, such as a street lamp, which lights up a streets. This way only part of the scene will be illuminated, in contrast to the dark walls of the buildings. The choice of having the light come from an internal environment, such as the window of a house or the shop window of a club, is also very interesting.

4. Blue hour

Unless you want to photograph the starry sky, prefer the moment after sunset when the sky is still blue and not black (blue hour).

Often, you’ll need slower shutter speeds to capture as much light as possible.
But beware of low light: when shooting in these conditions it is easy to have low quality photos as a result, because they are blurry or too dark.

For cameras, use a tripod or look for a low wall or something to support the camera on to make it stable.

With your smartphone, if you don’t use a tripod or support, try to keep as still as possible and try to select the night mode from the settings.

We advise against using the zoom of your smartphone for shots in poor light conditions, because you would lose the quality of the photo.

Always take more than one shot to be able to select the best one later and avoid surprises.

5. Moving light

Playing with light you can create extraordinary effects that will make your photos simply amazing.

You can capture, for example, the moving car headlights in the night.

You will need a tripod and long exposure, your shoot would last for some seconds. This way, when the cars will pass, you will capture the moving lights that will create sparkling lights, following the road shapes.

Increasing the exposure, pay attention to ISO, that have to be set in low values (for example, 100), to avoid noise and detail loss.

With light painting you can add extremely creative effects on your shots.

To make them, you can use moving artificial lights, such as colored LED lights, or a simple smartphone flashlight.

Again, the long exposure is necessary to capture the entire movement of the lights, which you can also manage yourself, setting the shutter to automatic and fixing the camera on a tripod.

To use these techniques also with the smartphone, it is necessary to have a stable support, to keep the camera still. Try setting the shot to night mode, or use the PRO settings to decrease the shutter speed.

What are you waiting for?

Try to put our tips into practice and tag us in your photos, we will publish them on our Instagram and Facebook pages.

Sunrise and Sunset? Surely they are optimal light conditions to obtain wonderful photos. Our tips? Don’t miss our next article.

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Thanks to our followers for their photos in the article!

6 PHOTO TIPS TO TAKE AMAZING PHOTOS WITH FRAMING PT.2

fiorita Castelluccio di Norcia in Umbria sul pian grande

In the previous article we talked about 6 photo tips to improve your photos.
In fact it’s very important to have clear what you want to capture, how many and which elements to frame in the photo.

Sometimes, our photos don’t satisfy us and we can’t figure out why.

No fear! There are some simple composition rules that can help us figure out what’s wrong and get better results!
They are very practical and intuitive techniques, based on order, lines and geometries, which make the photo more interesting and pleasant to look at.

So let’s try to explore some of them.

Of course, speaking of art, all these rules are not real imperatives. Indeed, sometimes not following them helps us to better express our message.
But to do this we need to be conscious of the rules, otherwise our result will be just a mistake, or a stroke of luck!

1. Horizon line

First thing: the horizon line must be perfectly horizontal!
In every phone or camera, a grid of horizontal and vertical lines can be displayed on the screen to help us.
In many cameras there is also a “digital horizon”, which helps us to keep the device exactly horizontal.

For images that have already been taken, it will be enough to rotate them slightly with any photo editing program or app. Also in this case, the grid will be displayed as a support.

2. Vertical lines

It’s not just the oblique horizon that creates strange sensations when looking at a photo!
Vertical lines are also important.
For example, if you want to frame an entire building, you will often fold your smartphone or camera upwards to make it fit entirely into the picture. The result will be a perspective, in which the vertical lines will be inclined and the buildings will literally appear to fall.
This effect is not very pleasant when we look at an image!

Therefore, you should always avoid tilting the device, and use the grid to check that the lines are actually vertical.

Furthermore, it is not always important that the whole building fits into the image. Drastic cuts are often more effective.
But how to do it if it is really necessary?

  • Try moving away from the frame or zoom out: this way you will be able to widen the scene and keep the camera straight.
  • Look for a raised spot nearby, a rooftop or a hill, so you don’t have to tilt the device. Try changing your point of view and get original photos.
  • If you want to really emphasize the height of a building, then sloping lines could help. However, try to go right in front of it, exactly in the center of the facade and tilt the device upwards. This way, the verticals will converge towards the center and the image will appear more symmetrical. We talk about this in the next paragraphs!

3. The rule of thirds

The most famous of these techniques is the rule of thirds. How many of your photos have the subject exactly in the center of the scene?
Perhaps this is not the best solution, because the photo can be boring or banal!

The grid we are talking about in the previous points, helps you to use the rule of thirds.
In practice, once the grid is activated in the settings of your device, the frame is divided by two vertical and two horizontal lines equidistant from each other, so as to create 9 equal squares.

When framing, what you have to do, is to position the subject on one of the vertices between the lines, because those are the points that attract the eye the most. This means that the main elements of the photo will be located not in the center, but slightly to the right or left. You will see that your photos will be more interesting and amazing!

The rule of thirds also helps create a good balance between heaven and earth. In fact, you can consciously choose where to place the horizon line, whether in the middle or on one of the grid lines, dedicating 1/3 of the space to the sky or the earth. More tips on these aspects can be found in this article.

The use of the grid and the rule of thirds is an extremely useful and intuitive aid, simple to put into practice immediately! Just activate it and start paying attention!

4. Lines and geometries 

The lines and geometries allow the image to be more clear and certainly make it more interesting, they give order and guide the eye between the different elements.

Whether the lines are vertical, horizontal, concentric or oblique, or whether you want to emphasize particular geometries, your images will involve the viewer!

Let’s see some examples.

  • Oblique lines

If the lines are oblique, make sure, using the grid, that they cross the vertices between the lines, or end up on the vertices of the outer edges. It is not necessary that all oblique lines go in the same direction, indeed, sometimes lines in different directions make the image even more incisive.

  • Convergent or concentric lines

The lines converging towards a single point allow you to guide the eye towards the main subject. And If the fulcrum of the converging lines falls on the center of the photo or on one of the thirds, it will have even more success. Concentric or circular lines are also a good way to lead the eye to the focus of the image.

  • Frames

Often, a geometry that frames the subject can help you focus attention on it, because it it makes it stand out and delimits it. Whether it’s a window, a door, or any other element, you will surely be able to create original and effective pics. So, look around and find something good to frame your shot. You will be surprised how many there may be: even a simple railing can be perfect!

5. Symmetries and series

Playing with the geometries and symmetries between the elements of the photo creates dynamic and beautiful images.
The series are given by identical elements that repeat themselves, such as the columns of a portico or of a church nave, a series of barrels in a cellar, the trunks of trees in a wood. In this case the contrasts of light and shadow can help you strengthen the series.

Symmetries, on the other hand, are given by shapes, geometries or elements that are mirrored symmetrically in the photo. They can easily be created with reflections: whether it’s thanks to a lake, a puddle, a shiny floor or a shop window, just place the line of symmetry in the center of the photo.
With this technique you can also create beautiful abstract photos, like the one below in black and white.

6. Depth of field

Another choice we can make is to emphasize our subject by making sure that it is in focus, while everything else will appear out of focus.
A technique widely used, lately, in the portrait mode of smartphones. In this case, in fact, just click on the main subject before the shot to immediately see how it will stand out compared to the rest of the scene.

This effect is given by the so-called depth of field, which strongly influences final shot.

If with the smartphone it is enough to select a specific shooting mode, let’s see briefly and without going into too much technical detail, how to change the depth of field with a camera.

The value we are interested in is f, which indicates the aperture. At low values (open aperture, f/2.8 for example), you will have a smaller depth of field: the subject will be in focus, while the other elements will be more blurred the further away from it.

On the other hand, to have a greater depth of field and the whole scene in focus, you will have to increase the f-value (closed aperture, for example f/11).

The aperture value to choose and the blur intensity will also depend on the distance between the different subjects and between the lens and the scene: to be clear, you will never be able to focus on a hill and blur the mountain behind it, if they are close to each other and far from you.

In fact, always in a simple but practical way, for the blur effect to work, the subject to be focused on must be close enough to you and far from the other elements to be blurred, as in the photo below, on the left. Or, conversely, far enough away from you, so that the blurred elements will be in the foreground, as in the photo on the right.

In fact, depth of field extends 1/3 in front of the point of focus and 2/3 behind it. Therefore, based on the choice of the subject in focus, you will obtain different blurs.

If you then combine it with the rule of thirds, you will have even better results!
For example, place the first subject in focus on one of the thirds and the second subject in the distance (out of focus) on the other third. You will have an image where the eye will be captured by the subject in the foreground and will immediately understand the depth of the space and the distance between the elements.

What are you waiting for?

You just have to practice to take wonderful pics with these settings!

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Tag us for this opportunity!

6 PHOTO TIPS TO TAKE AMAZING PHOTOS WITH FRAMING!

skyscraper New York at sunset

Knowing how to choose an interesting frame and compose an amazing photo it’s not so simple! Discover our photo tips to improve your shots in a professional way!

Often, photos taken with a low quality phone or with a beginner’s camera are much more exciting than those taken with advanced technologies. This is because the most important thing in a photograph is what it tells, the subject, the composition of the shot!

Photography is an expression of the author’s subjective creativity and it is therefore essential to train one’s eye to observe and know how to compose the image.

Not sure how to improve? Here are some simple tips to get great results from now!

1. What do you want to tell?

Random shoots will hardly allow you to get quality photos!

Observe the scene, ask yourself what really catches your eye and learn how to select the main subject and the rest of the elements you want to include. When we look at a photo, the eye starts from an element that stands out from the others and then moves on to the rest! Look for this subject and give it prominence!

To take more original and amazing photos, change your point of view, crouching down, or looking for a higher point.

Ask yourself questions like: what do I want to put in the foreground and what in the background? Do I have to get closer? Is it all interesting? Often what strikes us is a detail, which could get lost in a photo taken too far away: it will be better to get closer or use a zoom.

2. Pay attention to the edges!

The edges of our photos are very important, make sure there are no disturbing elements that you weren’t seeing, such as a trash can, the head of a passerby or some ugly bushes. In this case try to move around and look for a better frame, don’t focus only on the main subject.

So you will find that there are other interesting elements that perhaps you could include in the shot!

In the first image, below, there are disturbing elements (some trees and an electric pole), while in the second, changing the framing, these elements are eliminated and some trees on the left are more visible.

3. Less is more!

Don’t put too many elements in the shot that could cause confusion.

The eye focuses on a single subject first. Then look through the viewfinder or the screen: how many subjects did you include in the frame? Are there any useless, uninteresting things? Try to move, you will see that based on it, the chosen subject will stand out more or less in the photo.

For already taken shots, try cropping them with a simple photo editing app to understand if, with a different cut, they are more effective.

If you have a camera with lenses of different focal lengths, experiment with the same subject: the more you get used to observing and selecting, the easier it will be for you to recognize a good shot at a glance!

The following photos are taken at the same location. In the first, however, there are too many subjects and none is standing out, while in the second the attention shifts to a few elements and the point of view is lowered to the level of sand. The photo is much more exciting!

4. Leave space around the subject!

Unless it’s a portrait photo, where the subject’s cuts are often very narrow, try to leave enough space around the main element of the image.

So you won’t give the impression of sacrificing it. If, for example, we are talking about a mountain, as in the photo below, leave some space between the peak and the edge of the photo, to allow the eye to see it better.

If, on the other hand, you are only interested in one detail, make clean cuts!

5. How much land or sky?

Another important choice is where to place the horizon. This depends on which element is more interesting between sky and earth and what you want to tell.

If there are, for example, disturbing elements below, bushes or people that you want to eliminate, try to raise the frame, if there is a beautiful sky with interesting clouds, it is better to leave a wider space for them.

Instead, if the sky has a uniform color and the interesting thing are on the ground, leave it less space, but as mentioned in the previous point, do not reduce it too much!

As we will see with the rule of thirds, a balanced division of space is ⅓ dedicated to the sky and the rest to the earth, or vice versa.

6. Portrait or landscape? What aspect ratio is the best?

Shoot vertically or horizontally depending on the subject, the elements you want to include in the photo and the type of feeling you want to give.

For example, if you want to emphasize the height dimensions, you’ll use a portrait format. If you want to capture a natural landscape or in any case the context in which the subject is found, you may prefer a horizontal format.

The choice of the aspect ratio depends on the use we want to make of our photo: for an instagram story we use the 16:9, which can be selected in the settings of each smartphone or camera; for instagram posts the best ones are 4:5 for the portraits and 5:4 for the landscapes, or the square format 1:1.
This way, you won’t have white borders around the photo and you won’t have to crop it when publishing.
Also because, if the framing is studied and thought out, it will be difficult to cut it!

The most common formats for cameras and printing are 2:3 or 3:2.

Our last tip!

Be careful when using the smartphone zoom: unless in the very expensive models, the zoom will cause the image to lose a lot of quality and make it almost unusable, grainy or with altered colors.

Therefore, consider the possibility of getting closer to minimize the zoom or change framing, perhaps inserting other elements in the composition and making that detail part of a larger story!

And now what are you waiting for? Try to put these simple tips into practice and let yourself be amazed by how much your photos will improve!!

In the next article we will talk about other techniques and tricks to improve your photos even more and in particular we will focus on lines! To not miss the next article and all the other travel and photography tips, subscribe to our newsletter !

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4 PHOTO TIPS TO TAKE AMAZING PHOTOS WITH SNOW

Photo Tips | Select language ENGLISH ITALIAN

One of the things we like most to shoot in winter is the snowy landscape.
Whether the flakes cover the roofs and streets of a city or a mountain landscape, or spread around a frozen lake, snow can make a scene so special that it’s hard to resist capturing it!!

Snow is not an easy subject to photograph and the different compositions play a fundamental role to express different meanings, but be careful not to fall into common mistakes!

So let’s see together how to get good shots of our winter memories with little tips that we can keep both with a smartphone and a camera!

1. The composition

With snow, framing depends a lot on what you want to express.
You can choose to photograph a landscape with a large expanse of compacted snow, creating a homogeneous image.

Or you can choose to insert a detail or a subject that makes the image more dynamic thanks to color contrasts: the blue sky, the dark details of a rock, the branches or the trunk of a tree, the footprints of a passer-by or the tracks left by a car, or a person.
Insert this subject slightly to the right or left of the photo (we’ll talk about the rule of thirds later) and the image will certainly be more interesting!

Even sunrise and sunset, with their colors and the light effects on the snow, are very interesting moments to capture. Don’t be in a hurry at sunset: in winter the so-called golden hour lasts longer and beautiful colors are created even tens of minutes after the sun has set!

The following pictures are taken the same day with the same sunsets but the results are completely different!

2. Pay attention to exposure and white balance

Snow is white but it’s not that easy to make it look white! Often in our photos it could be gray or turn towards a dominant color, perhaps blue. 

For this it is often necessary to overexpose the photo, making it brighter to avoid the grey and let the white shine. To do this, simply increase the exposure by one stop with your camera. 
To check the white balance, just use the color temperature settings, experimenting.

With a smartphone it is very simple to obtain the same result: after framing, touch the screen in the area that seems darker and the exposure will automatically increase. If the result is not good, we can switch to the PRO setting of our smartphone and adjust the EV value: increasing it by +1, you will get a double exposure.

But be careful not to “burn” the photo: areas that are already very light, such as the sky, could be completely white and lose detail. In smartphones this risk is usually limited by the automatic HDR, which rebalances the different exposures in the photo. With the camera, just check the histogram: if the curve has lines touching the right side, then you have exaggerated with overexposure.

Even smartphones, in the PRO mode, allow you to play with the white balance, with a dedicated setting, or modifying the photo after.

The white balance allow us to change the character of our photo, making it warmer with yellow tones, colder with blue tones, or neutral. But don’t overdo it or your photos will look unnatural!

Do you already have photos and want to improve them? Don’t worry, these two settings can be easily modified with any photo editing software or app!

The photo below has a more yellow tint, but this is a choice of the author to underline the warmer atmosphere of sunrise.
So the rules are important but sometimes we could use a prevailing color tone to express a special mood!

3. How to photograph falling snow

If while we are shooting it starts to snow, our photos could get a truly magical atmosphere. To best capture the snow there are several choices.
You can opt for fast times that capture the snowflakes in a precise position or for longer times that record the movement of the flakes, creating small white lines.
Shutter times can be easily changed both with the camera, using the manual or shutter priority settings, and with the smartphone in PRO mode.

Since the snow is fast enough, it will not be necessary to stretch the times too much and thus we will avoid taking blurry photos, if we do not have a tripod that stabilizes our device. Also, pay attention to the fact that by increasing or decreasing the shutter speed, the brightness of your photo also increases or decreases respectively.

It may also be necessary to adjust the shutter aperture  (f value): to let in more light you will need to have low values, while high values will decrease the light. Changing the f values you will also change the depth of field: with low values you will have the flakes in the foreground in focus and the background blurred, while with higher values you will have the whole landscape in focus.

There is therefore not only one way to get interesting photos during a snowfall, so free your creativity and do your own tests!

A little secret: also in this case, adding a subject in chromatic contrast with the falling snow will make the flakes more visible!

4. How to photograph snowflakes

Snowflakes are not a very simple subject, but to succeed you will need a macro lens both in reflex cameras and in your smartphone, to be able to be near and try to capture the perfect shape of the flakes.

Two tips that will make the photo more effective: try to photograph the flakes that rest on a glass, such as a window, and look for a backlit shot that makes them brighter.

Also, make sure the background is dark so they stand out more!

Photo by Aaron Burden on Unsplash

Last tip: shoot in RAW format instead of JPG, to avoid loss of image quality during editing (now some latest generation smartphones allow you to shoot in this format, but we will talk more about it next).

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Tag us in your Instagram photos with snow using the hashtag #imagomap or the tag @imagomap and write us in the comments below what you think or if you have more curiosities or doubts! We will be happy to answer!